Fiesta (2009) Zetec brake pedal travel
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October 31, 2014, 11:30:55 PM
Nocturne, nip the top bolts up nice and tight and they should be fine.Have had no knocking sounds after doing that.
October 31, 2014, 09:36:54 PM
Took a guy in a souped up Colt Ralliart for a good hoon on a secluded road today. Holy moly those things are pocket rockets!!
October 31, 2014, 09:11:18 PM
I find it funny the latest ad here is for an x-trail. target demographic...
October 31, 2014, 02:57:32 PM
Saw something when i googled that Russ, looks like Robbo could be spot on with top bolt/s. Thanks gents
October 31, 2014, 02:49:18 PM
If its the bc coilovers its a common problem. Have a  look on stoc. Heaps of info on it yet I don't think there is a solution. One of the reasons I went kw.
October 31, 2014, 01:44:03 PM
Am i better off making the suspension place that installed the coilovers do that?

It wasn't there at first, then was only at left, went away, now both sides. ugh.
October 31, 2014, 10:23:08 AM
Check the rear shock mounts up top. Access two bolts from under the rear gaurds. Wheel off job.
October 31, 2014, 06:35:54 AM
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October 30, 2014, 07:54:09 PM
Coolant temp sensor is in thermostat housing . Oil per sure sensor is on the front of the block just above crank height and boost is calculated by the ECU from the pressure reading above the reference reading all within the MAP sensor, so yes, all real readings.
October 30, 2014, 07:10:40 PM
Now I'm curious... Are the coolant temp, oil pressure and boost gauges also 'calculated'? Or are they real measurements?
October 30, 2014, 06:46:33 PM
:D Ok good just checking.
October 30, 2014, 06:12:50 PM
I can confirm it still works Smiley
October 30, 2014, 05:47:22 PM
Yes it will still work as you won't be touching it or modifying it at all. It will work along side another one if you choose to install one..
October 30, 2014, 05:13:07 PM
If an external air-air oil cooler is added does the factory gauge still work? Its obviously not a precision gauge but as long as it shows the approximate magnitude.
October 30, 2014, 02:32:11 PM
You have to use a seperate gauge to keep it seperate from the original ones that are controlled by the body control/ ecu
October 30, 2014, 10:42:34 AM
So stock gauge can show correct reading if hooked up to proper temp sensor? Or we have to use separate gauge like u did Wilsh?
October 30, 2014, 09:49:00 AM
You can get in line an fittings with 1/8 not threads in the side of them to accomodate an oil temp sensor. I know aero flow do them.
October 30, 2014, 06:54:28 AM
For those of you with external oil coolers, is it possible to use a proper oil temp sensor with the factory gauge?
October 30, 2014, 06:29:46 AM
It has improved lately on facebook pete. That guy last night was the exception to the rule. Complete knob
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Author Topic: Fiesta (2009) Zetec brake pedal travel  (Read 21223 times)
rods
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« on: April 21, 2012, 04:21:52 PM »

I know there are a few Fiesta owners on here so just throwing this one out there.

The wife's Fiesta has a LOT of travel before the brakes engage. The brakes work OK but the pedal can be pushed to the floor!

Been back to the dealer 5 times I think Ticked Off Rear pads adjusted, bled 2 or 3 times, replaced rear wheel cylinder, replaced master cylinder. Everytime it comes back, I swear it gets worse.

A bit of chatter on a UK forum had me thinking it might be a known issue but can't seem to find any resolution.

Have any fiesta owners had any issues with brakes or heard of any problems?
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« Reply #1 on: April 21, 2012, 04:44:35 PM »

How far do you pull the handbrake to start it working? Could be that the cable needs adjusting. It's usually under the car, like a turnbuckle thingy to effectively shorten or lengthen the cable.

If the handbrake is adjusted reasonably short the brakes can't open up too far and will take up earlier upon pedal effort being applied.
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« Reply #2 on: April 21, 2012, 05:03:34 PM »

The hand brake comes about 1/3 to 1/2 way up before it feels like it is working.

With the hand brake on (and the engine running) the brake pedal still has a lot of travel but at least the pedal doesn't hit the floor.

So, I'm not sure that's the problem but I can see it might help. I'll adjust it when I get a chance.

Thanks for the suggestion.

Rod
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« Reply #3 on: April 21, 2012, 05:23:45 PM »

How many kilometers has it done? Maybe the brakes are also getting pretty thin, or air in the lines? Needing a bleed with some new fluid.
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« Reply #4 on: April 22, 2012, 08:28:22 AM »

About 27k. If it wasn't under warranty I would have taken it elsewhere ages ago.
Just lost all confidence in this particular dealership.
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« Reply #5 on: April 22, 2012, 09:55:04 AM »

If I'm not mistaken, the handbrake is a cable and the brakes are a fluid, so the handbrake test is not really a good test in this instance...

Are the brakes spongy?  Have you had them do a brake fluid flush?  Has it been this way since day 1 or has it gotten worse over time?  Could be needing a flush, new fluid, new lines, etc...  Have you been able to compare it to one at the dealer when you're there for getting it checked out?

Where are you loacted?
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« Reply #6 on: April 22, 2012, 04:15:04 PM »

Sounds like the sort of thing when you need new fluid to me.

Correct the handbrake is cable.
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« Reply #7 on: April 23, 2012, 08:37:49 AM »

If I'm not mistaken, the handbrake is a cable and the brakes are a fluid, so the handbrake test is not really a good test in this instance...

Are the brakes spongy?  Have you had them do a brake fluid flush?  Has it been this way since day 1 or has it gotten worse over time?  Could be needing a flush, new fluid, new lines, etc...  Have you been able to compare it to one at the dealer when you're there for getting it checked out?

Where are you loacted?

I'm in SA otherwise would have been around to Sinclair Ford in a flash.

I'm sure the brakes were fine when new. Had to slam on the brakes soon after we got it.(to avoid an idiot stopping mid intersection on a green)  Not sure if that is relevant though.

Yes, there is travel and then they are spongy to the point where the pedal can be pushed to the floor but the brakes still work.

I've been told the brakes were bled but not sure if they have had a whole flush and I'm sure the lines haven't been changed.

On one of the early visits to the workshop they adjusted the rear pads which helped for a while so I can see how a loose hand brake cable might be part of the problem.

I guess I'll take it back again and ask for a brake fluid flush. (I think this is part of the 30k service anyway)
Is it possible the brake lines have been stretched due to the hard braking incident?
I'll also ask to try another car to make sure it isn't all in my mind.
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« Reply #8 on: April 23, 2012, 10:35:44 AM »

Rods - my recomendation would be the pin inside the brake master cylinder housing. ive seen a similar issue on a Ford KA in the UK where a member was modifying their master cylinder, they inserted the pin incorrectly (not deep enough) and i appeared the brakes wouldnt work.

After they looked into it some more, they found by screwing the pin in 2-3 turns the pin actually made contact alot sooner and the brakes where alot more responsive. they also engaged higher on the pedal.

the thread can be found here,

http://www.fordkaownersclub.com/e107_plugins/forum/forum_viewtopic.php?72367

if it doesnt let you in just press enter on the web adress up the top. should show you want you need tos ee.
« Last Edit: April 23, 2012, 10:47:55 AM by photn » Report to moderator   Logged

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« Reply #9 on: April 23, 2012, 12:55:04 PM »

Thanks for the link photn.

I'll mention this possibility to the service manager too.
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