Fiesta (2009) Zetec brake pedal travel
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July 31, 2014, 09:27:42 PM

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Last 20 Shouts:
Today at 08:50:18 PM
That may be too narrow and flip in the hose.
Today at 06:19:47 PM
use a frost plug.
July 30, 2014, 11:47:43 PM
a 34mm bung is the proper way to do it
July 30, 2014, 11:20:19 PM
Basically just undo the hose clamp and remove the hose from the inlet pipe. Then just follow where it leads and remove it all. Just use a door stop and a hose clamps to block it on the inlet pipe.
July 30, 2014, 10:39:43 PM
The rest of the hose system that goes up over the engine is nothing. It fits in a moulded rubber flange that is in a hole in the underside of the wiper cowl area. The sound outlet is between the top and bottom cowl.
July 30, 2014, 10:37:29 PM
If you remove the symposer, plug the hose properly. Use a metal plug and a hose clamp. The air is hot and plastic will fatigue and pop out under boost. You will know about it instantly!
July 30, 2014, 10:32:21 PM
The sound is made by impulses from the opening and closing of the valves. The paddle reacts like a passive woofer and the outlet hose is basically like a sub port.
July 30, 2014, 10:30:33 PM
The symposer is a pair of chambers separated by a kind of diaphragm/paddle. One side is on the boost path, the other ends at the firewall, just an open ended fitting to pipe sound up near the cabin.
July 30, 2014, 10:28:06 PM
This comes from confusion of what the symposer really is. It is not needed at all. It just makes a semi fake induction noise. If you disconnect the symposer and plug the hose, there is nothing else of the system needed or affecting the car.
July 30, 2014, 09:37:13 PM
I have had a quick read through the posts on removing the symposer. I still don't really know how much of the pipes to remove. Does anyone have before and after photos so I can see what comes out? What did you use to plug the holes?
July 30, 2014, 09:03:32 PM
hahaha
July 30, 2014, 07:53:04 PM
yeah. you'd be better off looking for a spare shell no?
July 30, 2014, 07:46:50 PM
Why would you need a motor?
July 30, 2014, 07:04:25 PM
lol Adrian
July 30, 2014, 06:53:02 PM
heh thx Loz, already looking for a motor.
July 30, 2014, 06:15:16 PM
*defibrillator.....

Wink
July 30, 2014, 06:10:09 PM
looks like the track day has been given a hit with the defribulator. MDTC have offered to run a Speed off the Street day on our date so we can still run despite having less numbers than usual
July 30, 2014, 03:30:52 PM
I'm sure it will give many an RS a run for its money Ben, esp with you at the tiller. Welcome back to the 5fold.
July 30, 2014, 11:20:03 AM
Let the modding begin!!!
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Author Topic: Fiesta (2009) Zetec brake pedal travel  (Read 11935 times)
rods
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« on: April 21, 2012, 04:21:52 PM »

I know there are a few Fiesta owners on here so just throwing this one out there.

The wife's Fiesta has a LOT of travel before the brakes engage. The brakes work OK but the pedal can be pushed to the floor!

Been back to the dealer 5 times I think Ticked Off Rear pads adjusted, bled 2 or 3 times, replaced rear wheel cylinder, replaced master cylinder. Everytime it comes back, I swear it gets worse.

A bit of chatter on a UK forum had me thinking it might be a known issue but can't seem to find any resolution.

Have any fiesta owners had any issues with brakes or heard of any problems?
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« Reply #1 on: April 21, 2012, 04:44:35 PM »

How far do you pull the handbrake to start it working? Could be that the cable needs adjusting. It's usually under the car, like a turnbuckle thingy to effectively shorten or lengthen the cable.

If the handbrake is adjusted reasonably short the brakes can't open up too far and will take up earlier upon pedal effort being applied.
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« Reply #2 on: April 21, 2012, 05:03:34 PM »

The hand brake comes about 1/3 to 1/2 way up before it feels like it is working.

With the hand brake on (and the engine running) the brake pedal still has a lot of travel but at least the pedal doesn't hit the floor.

So, I'm not sure that's the problem but I can see it might help. I'll adjust it when I get a chance.

Thanks for the suggestion.

Rod
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« Reply #3 on: April 21, 2012, 05:23:45 PM »

How many kilometers has it done? Maybe the brakes are also getting pretty thin, or air in the lines? Needing a bleed with some new fluid.
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« Reply #4 on: April 22, 2012, 08:28:22 AM »

About 27k. If it wasn't under warranty I would have taken it elsewhere ages ago.
Just lost all confidence in this particular dealership.
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« Reply #5 on: April 22, 2012, 09:55:04 AM »

If I'm not mistaken, the handbrake is a cable and the brakes are a fluid, so the handbrake test is not really a good test in this instance...

Are the brakes spongy?  Have you had them do a brake fluid flush?  Has it been this way since day 1 or has it gotten worse over time?  Could be needing a flush, new fluid, new lines, etc...  Have you been able to compare it to one at the dealer when you're there for getting it checked out?

Where are you loacted?
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« Reply #6 on: April 22, 2012, 04:15:04 PM »

Sounds like the sort of thing when you need new fluid to me.

Correct the handbrake is cable.
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« Reply #7 on: April 23, 2012, 08:37:49 AM »

If I'm not mistaken, the handbrake is a cable and the brakes are a fluid, so the handbrake test is not really a good test in this instance...

Are the brakes spongy?  Have you had them do a brake fluid flush?  Has it been this way since day 1 or has it gotten worse over time?  Could be needing a flush, new fluid, new lines, etc...  Have you been able to compare it to one at the dealer when you're there for getting it checked out?

Where are you loacted?

I'm in SA otherwise would have been around to Sinclair Ford in a flash.

I'm sure the brakes were fine when new. Had to slam on the brakes soon after we got it.(to avoid an idiot stopping mid intersection on a green)  Not sure if that is relevant though.

Yes, there is travel and then they are spongy to the point where the pedal can be pushed to the floor but the brakes still work.

I've been told the brakes were bled but not sure if they have had a whole flush and I'm sure the lines haven't been changed.

On one of the early visits to the workshop they adjusted the rear pads which helped for a while so I can see how a loose hand brake cable might be part of the problem.

I guess I'll take it back again and ask for a brake fluid flush. (I think this is part of the 30k service anyway)
Is it possible the brake lines have been stretched due to the hard braking incident?
I'll also ask to try another car to make sure it isn't all in my mind.
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« Reply #8 on: April 23, 2012, 10:35:44 AM »

Rods - my recomendation would be the pin inside the brake master cylinder housing. ive seen a similar issue on a Ford KA in the UK where a member was modifying their master cylinder, they inserted the pin incorrectly (not deep enough) and i appeared the brakes wouldnt work.

After they looked into it some more, they found by screwing the pin in 2-3 turns the pin actually made contact alot sooner and the brakes where alot more responsive. they also engaged higher on the pedal.

the thread can be found here,

http://www.fordkaownersclub.com/e107_plugins/forum/forum_viewtopic.php?72367

if it doesnt let you in just press enter on the web adress up the top. should show you want you need tos ee.
« Last Edit: April 23, 2012, 10:47:55 AM by photn » Report to moderator   Logged

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« Reply #9 on: April 23, 2012, 12:55:04 PM »

Thanks for the link photn.

I'll mention this possibility to the service manager too.
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